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Tong Lo


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KUMO



2021

-> Biomimicry
-> Sportswear

Sports bra inspired by spider webs. 


KUMO explores biomimicry applications of spider’s web’s topology pattern as a model for designing greater support and comfort that fits a wider range of breast sizes and shapes.

Problem & Opportunity

In the UK, 1 in 5 women reported the sports bra as one of the top influential factors of discouragement for sports participation. The complex and diverse geometries of the breasts pose a challenge to creating effective sports bras using standardised mass production methods. As a result, an ill-fitted sports bra can lead to insufficient breast support and cause discomfort, which in turn, affects the long-term health of women.

Methodology & Research

Biomimicry looks to nature and natural systems for inspiration, hacking nature’s 3.8 billion years of R&D to solve human design challenges.

Spider webs are one of the strongest, most resilient animal architectures in nature. One of the main functions of spider orb webs is to dissipate the kinetic energy of the impacting prey. A connection is drawn between a spider’s prey-catching behaviour and the sports bra’s function, which is to dissipate forces generated by the rapid movement of the breasts while exercising.



Unsupported by a sports bra, breast displacement occurs in a multi-planer manner and is specific to the impact level of the activity. A spider web's weaving structure allows forces to be evenly dissipated and can capture forces coming from all directions. The adaptability of the modular features means that they could be adjusted to suit different support requirements depending on the intensity of the sports activities. 
Standardised model of spider web Biomechanics of breast displacement Natural anatomical support of breasts Force analysis of a sports bra


Design Innovation


1. Sports bra design

A standard simplified model of a spider orb web contains static, adaptable geometric characteristics. Spiders have the ability to adjust properties of the web based on prey sizes. The adaptability of the orb web means that these construction units can be adjusted to suit a variety of energy absorption applications.
  1. Providing that radial threads have greater ability to absorb energy, the placement of radial silk is considered with the intention to reinforce anatomical support. Following the natural arrangement of ligaments and pectoral muscles, the positioning of radial threads is intended to enhance support in the upward and inward direction.
  1. The main function of the secondary frame in a spider orb web is to dissipate tension. In a sports bra, the greatest tension is experienced in the position of the strap and the side band due to fabric stretch. As such, the strap features secondary frames intended to distribute excess tension.

  1. Spiral threads increase the surface area to enhance prey capture from different directions. As breast displacement occurs in a multi-planer manner, spiral threads are placed in a way that encapsulates the natural contour of the breasts, with the intention to minimise displacement in all directions. In addition, spiral silk and radial silks are interconnected, which allows spiral silk to reinforce the support provided by radial silk.
Design diagrams


Production Innovation

2. Parametric design tool

Though many designs on the market have achieved product innovation that promises the improvement of support and comfort, ultimately the effectiveness of a sports bra's ability to deliver these promises is highly dependent on fit. The current market is fundamentally limited by mass production manufacturing processes which offer standardised sizing that does not represent the majority of wearers.
With 3D scanning technique to extra useful fit data, the spider web pattern can be generated with the paramatric tool, depending on support and comfort needs. The output creates a well-fitted sports bra with high customisation potential that can be fed to a digital knitting machine for personalised production.
Design framework

Highlights

Framework

-> Spider’s web weaving process X performance wear design process
Product 

-> Prototype (textile: merino wool, elastomeric)
Exhibition

-> Royal College of Art Graduation show
-> Imperial College London